Chair of the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists Giorgio Dell’Acqua told CosmeticsDesign the innovation in the topical anti-wrinkle space is currently centering around using existing technologies more effectively.
As skin ages, processes like collagen production are decreased, and external factors like lifestyle and sun exposure can cause the skin to age at an accelerated pace. This aging can result in wrinkling, particularly for those in the lower end of the Fitzpatrick scale.
Dell’Acqua said anti-wrinkle formulation focuses either on replenishing what has been lost, like collagen or by fighting factors that cause skin aging, like the use of antioxidants to address ROS.
Making vitamins more effective, bioavailable and stability
Vitamins are a common element in anti-wrinkle formulation, for example, vitamins A, C and E, and formulators are looking for ways to deliver those ingredients more effectively.
“You need to work on the stability of the molecule, the bioavailability of the molecule, the penetration of the molecules, but you also need to work on a concentration that is safe,” Dell’Acqua said.
Increasing stability in vitamins is important because they can oxidize in a formulation, which will change the color of a product and may turn off consumers, he said.
Making vitamins more bioavailable is also important in making anti-wrinkle products safe for consumers. For example, Dell’Acqua said some consumers use a high level of retinol, but that is not safe for consumers with sensitive skin. If the vitamin were more bioavailable, it would be more accessible for those consumers.