The identification of innovation in skincare and anti-aging science is the core remit of Truth In Aging. However, it can be hard to keep up with new product reviews and their ingredients. So here is a round-up of new actives that I have discovered in recent new product launches and reformulations.
Hyperpigmentation is tough and I am always eager for new actives that show results without harming the skin. Recently, hexylresorcinol burst on to the skincare scene because of its ability to target the pathways in the skin that lead to hyperpigmentation. There is some evidence, due to its antioxidant properties, that it can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase protection against sun damage and pollution. I came across it in the new body peel (and one of my new favorite products) from Dr. Dennis Gross, the Alpha Beta Exfoliating Body Treatment Peel ($58 in the shop).
There have been few advances in hair growth actives, an example being Capilxyl, which was developed only around five years ago and is in my proprietary hair growth serum TV Advanced Complex. And now I am excited to welcome a new kid on the block: biotynoyl tripeptide-1. It is a three-amino acid peptide combined with biotin for reducing hair loss and making lashes appear longer and stronger. The inventor did a trial for eyelash growth with 30 volunteers and claims lashes got longer by 17% and thicker by 19% after 30 days. It is in (along with aforementioned Capixyl) my new find, Big Full Lashes ($80 in the shop), a new – and in my opinion – very effective – lash growth product.
I always love discovering a new peptide. Tripeptide-29 has been shown to significantly (the lab that created it claims by as much as 400%) increase collagen synthesis and repair skin. Degradation of collagen is one of the leading causes of wrinkle formation. For the peptide nerds amongst you, know that is a pure G-P-Hyp tripeptide, whereby the proline and hydroxyproline are sourced from a type of glutamic acid found in seaweed. Your Best Face Defend ($130 in the shop) was recently reformulated to feature Tripeptide-29.
Years back I noted that the foodie fad for fermenting was spilling into the skincare industry. However, that trend seemed to fizzle out. Until, that is, probiotics in cosmetics brought fermenting back. The new probiotic serum from ClarityRX, called Get Balanced ($72 in the shop) majors on Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate. While a bit of a mouthful, it is basically fermented ginseng. A recent study demonstrated that fermenting greatly enhanced the antioxidant profile of the ginseng, while reducing the potential for skin irritation to next to nothing. This isn’t surprising since fermentation makes it probiotic and, therefore, your skin’s microbiome has a new best friend.
Neuropeptides, which work on expression lines, have seen quite a bit of innovation in the past decade. Pentapeptide-18 is a newish peptide that is supposed to help one of the oldest and ubiquitous (Argireline) work harder. It mimics enkephalins, the peptides associated with pain relief. Pentapeptide-18 couples to the enkephalin receptor on the outside of the nerve cells, resulting in a decrease of its “excitability.” In other words, the nerve cell’s activity is turned down and the release of acetylcholine (see Argireline above) is modulated. You will find it in Expürtise Effective Anti-Aging Rich Moisturizer ($95 in the shop) and ReLuma Eye Cream ($95 in the shop), along with Argireline.
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